To everyone who own a Slate, please post you batchnumber/modelnummer and state of screen

Discussion in 'Samsung' started by timpaatkins, Nov 18, 2011.

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  1. timpaatkins

    timpaatkins Scribbler - Standard Member

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    DD, that is awesome news and info, thank you very much for clarifying! Id still like people to post the full serial number, but I will update the first post to have nothing but the stats of which ones tend to better or worse of the BA, and then maybe we can see eventually if the K has any significance.
     
  2. bkydcmpr

    bkydcmpr Scribbler - Standard Member

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    This thread will be very helpful for the new buyers, anyone try to pick up a slate during the Black Friday sale should look for BB batches and if possible HLVJ93Ks.

    Wait, do those 2 bad BB slates have smaller serial numbers (may indicate they are from early November batches)? Unfortunately everyone masked the serial number for privacy, so we have no idea if the bad November slates were from an early batch.
     
  3. jerelyn

    jerelyn Scribbler - Standard Member

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    Was annoyed by that gap at the bottom left corner, so I did a swap at the MS Store. This latest one is a CBB has no gaps and is very solid and un-creaky. I'm quite happy.

    Something of note...our first two units, which were CBA and had more creak and started showing bezel problems...BOTH of those units also developed problems with the Network Card in the dock. It started by showing the cable as unplugged, and eventually evolved into not showing the network card at all. I suspect the flex at the bottom was putting stress on the docking interface in the laptop, but that's just a guess of course.

    In summary, if you have a CBA, keep a close eye on your network card behavior, especially while you are in the window to do an exchange.
     
  4. tricky

    tricky Pen Pal - Newbie

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    HLVJ93KBB004xxD from the Microsoft Store in LA.

    Feels more solid than the CBA one I had before. No creaks at all. The glass is even with or slightly below the bezel in most areas, although the bottom left is the worst where the glass is slightly (< 0.5mm) higher. As thecakeisalie noted, looking straight down into the groove between the glass and bezel, there's a small strip of something (adhesive maybe?) in that area.

    The fan seems a little louder on this unit. Also the display has a very slight magenta tint compared to the previous one, but nothing unusual for an uncalibrated monitor. The SAMSUNG lettering on the back of the unit has more of an edge, like it could easily get caught on something and peeled off.

    This unit came with the newer 03FW BIOS, but that's now outdated by the 04FW available for download. (I do wish Samsung would provide a change log for all their software updates. Lenovo was always great with that.)

    Overall, I'm quite happy with the replacement, as long as the glass doesn't pop up in few weeks.
     
  5. eyano

    eyano Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Just got A03 from amazon today

    HLCXXXCBAXXXY

    Better stay tight. Will update if things turn sour.
     
  6. anteatereater

    anteatereater Scribbler - Standard Member

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    jerelyn! I have that exact same problem on my CBA right now. The rest of the dock inputs work, only the ethernet doesn't. I called up Samsung about it and they asked me to send it in--my only option since my return date is up for this one. They said they may keep it 15 days, but I need it right now, so I postponed it--they will keep the issue on file.

    We did some tests over the phone. As I was reinstalling RealTek drivers, I alternated between undocking the slate, unplugging the ethernet cable, and trying another dock. No dice. edit: the adapter now shows up when it's plugged in sometimes, but doesnt detect a cable

    So I'm going to send it in when I find a good opportunity (maybe mid Dec), and then I've also asked them to fix the bevel problem too. Two birds, one stone.
     
  7. Steve S

    Steve S Pen Pro - Senior Member Super Moderator

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    Courtesy of DeathDemon and via Google Translate:

    DETERMINATION OF THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE

    Date coded in the serial number, for example:
    1XW234567S
    The last character (S) - a control character (sometimes absent);
    The last five digits (34 567) - the actual serial number;
    The sixth sign of the end (2) - the month of manufacture;
    The seventh sign of the end (W) - year of manufacture;
    There are still may be from 3 to 7 characters.

    CODING OF THE MONTH:

    in order of numbers 1 ... 9 (January ... September), A-October, B-November, C-December.

    CODING OF THE YEAR:

    Y-2005, L-2006, P-2007, Q-2008, S-2009, Z-2010, B-2011, C-2012, D-2013, F-2014, G-2015, H-2016, J- 2017, K-2018, M-2019, N-2020
     
  8. thecakeisalie

    thecakeisalie Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Phew, that makes me feel better about mine. I was hoping to get a KBB as well, but yours sounds exactly like mine as far as the build quality goes. :)
     
  9. asifisme77

    asifisme77 Pen Pal - Newbie

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    For those of you who are noticing some extra adhesive, is it possible to capture that in a photo and upload please? Thanks in advance!
     
  10. Saluda

    Saluda Pen Pal - Newbie

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    This is good news, hopefully my replacement that arrives next week will be one of the newer batches.... :)

    I received my first unit the day after release. It was solid and started lifting about week to two weeks.
     
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