Modding the Tx1000 part 1 (changing the thermal compound)

Discussion in 'Hewlett Packard' started by Mighty ABACUS, Jul 21, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. FuzzyWuzzyDan

    FuzzyWuzzyDan Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    As to the black paint issue, many people are forgetting about the third and most important heat transfer method for a heat sink, Convection, this is why removing the black paint can help.

    While a black surface will "radiate" more heat to it's surroundings, this is several magnitudes less heat transfer then the convection from the heat sink.

    The black paint actually effects the heat sink in several ways, first it should slightly reduce conduction internally in the boundary between the paint and the copper (very slight yes.. but, no connection of two surfaces is ever perfect) then the paint itself has a lesser ability to conduct heat through it, and finally there is the convection ability of the black paint vs. copper.

    Also in a strange twist, having a reflective copper surface vs. a painted black surface also takes in less heat from the surrounding environment from radiation (think your white car vs. black car.)

    There is however one concern, and this is why copper car radiators are painted, corrosion, there is the ability of the surface to become oxidized, while I do not think this would have a great effect on performance (and in my opinion would not hurt it as much as the black paint would), you will notice aluminum radiators are not painted, there is no reason for it, the performance would be lost, with no gain.

    Now just to have time to steal my tx2500 back from the girlfriend to try this mod out...
     
  2. CiViCKiDD

    CiViCKiDD Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    I've been building computers for years and have a pretty good idea of how much thermal paste I need to use- I put just enough for a light coating of the cores. The next time I ripped it apart I put a bit more, probably double what I normally put and had no luck.

    I really think there might be a gap between my CPU core and the heatsink.. when I get around to it I'll buy a thermal pad (since that's what was on there before) and give it another go. Probably won't be happening till the summer though.

    *EDIT* and yes, I was using Arctic Silver 5. Though, it's a few years old. (I don't know why that would make a difference, since I just used it for my Intel Dual Core build and I'm getting really low temperatures with my stock HSF).
     
  3. Sodde

    Sodde Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Guy's before doing this mod, you really should go back and read my post #118. There are measurements that need to be taken before you even begin to put your computer together and 'buying' a shim doesn't guarantee you anything. Artic silver should be used to fill small voids not gooped on. You can actually spread the heat to a wider area of the component thus increasing the heat by applying too much. The shim should 'soak' the heat up and disperse it into the airstream of the fan and exit out of the vent. If you want a good heat conductor, use 100% copper (not a penny, its waaay to thick) sheet or even better....silver. You can get silver sheet from a good jewellers, but its hard to get in small quantities. They'll sell you a small amount if you talk nice. Its imperative that you maintain good airflow from the fan to the outlet vent. (1) make sure you don't dislodge seals or seatings around this area as if the airflow isn't right, your just allowing radiant heat to build up inside the casing without a method of escape. (2) Don't clean the black off the fins, its there for a reason as dark surfaces conduct more heat that lighter ones
    You must make sure that the majority of parts in contact, i.e. GPU>shim>heatsync, are flush and any minor irregularities are taken up by the artic silver. If you don't, the results vary wildly as you can see from the recent posts.
    I've done 3 Tx's now and both of the people I did mods for are very happy with the results.
     
  4. Tiezep

    Tiezep technology enthusiast

    Messages:
    368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    31
    well either way I'm having stunning results with a sanded down canadian penny and a nice small glob of thermal paste between the gpu and penny and the penny and the heat sink.

    I used 2 small globs on the cpu that I used a business card to smooth down on the core.

    also I removed the paint from 1 fin (ran low on acetone) and it's works great,
    -Tyler
     
  5. staulkor

    staulkor Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Does this apply for the TX2Z-1000? I haven't found anybody attempting. Mine idle around 60C on power saver mode with wifi off and the fans kick on and is annoying in class.
     
  6. Tiezep

    Tiezep technology enthusiast

    Messages:
    368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    31
    it applies for all of the tx series.

    heck, knowing hp that spiffy new tm2 might need this to be applied,
    -Tyler
     
  7. staulkor

    staulkor Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    So last night I fully disassembled the tx2z and removed the heat sink, cleaned off the paint with acetone, and replaced the crappy HP thermal compound with arctic silver 5. I noticed for the tx2z there is a weird sticky gel pad thing that sits between the gpu and copper heat sink.

    Before: idle at 60-65C
    After: idle at 40-55c

    Definitely a major improvement.
     
  8. Tiezep

    Tiezep technology enthusiast

    Messages:
    368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    31
    may I recommend changing the gel pad with a copper sheet or a sanded down 1970's canadian penny? (98% copper those years)

    if you don't do much gaming or watch hd videos then it doesn't matter but if you do you really notice a difference.

    about an hour into a halo 2 game the fan doesn't have to blow at full throttle, serious improvement if you ask me.
    -Tyler
     
  9. Yianaki

    Yianaki Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    57
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15
    If I wasn't going to screw with changing the GPU Pad should I bother putting arctic silver on the existing pad or will that make things worse. I am just going to put the arctic silver on CPU right now.
     
  10. gooniegoogoo

    gooniegoogoo Pen Pal - Newbie

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Ok....one thing I haven't seen here....as I am in the middle of attempting to reflow my GPU....

    What is the correct temperature / process for using a HEAT GUN rather than a 150-200W Light Bulb??

    From all reports a heat gun works better......so what the proper temperature and time for using a heat gun (not hot air solder)???
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page