DIY fix for the Asus Vivotab Note 8 pen/touch failure.

Discussion in 'Asus' started by Mesosphere, Aug 29, 2014.

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Did the cable replacement fix work for you (votes are changeable, owners only please)?

  1. Replacing the cable worked.

    29.8%
  2. Fiddling with the original cable worked.

    54.8%
  3. A DIY fix is not something I'm willing to try.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. I attempted the fix, but it did not work for me.

    6.0%
  5. I have had no digitizer issues.

    9.5%
  1. Peter T

    Peter T Pen Pal - Newbie

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    I used transparent plastic glue like that for assembling model aeroplanes. However I can't say that I recommend it. The pen cut-offs kept falling away because the glue didn't seem to like the surfaces I was using it for.
    Maybe superglue would be better. I would be interested to hear of more suitable glues.
     
  2. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Little transparent tape seem better to me. It reinforce the ribbon by itself. You can also easily try and error with it also.
     
  3. Peter T

    Peter T Pen Pal - Newbie

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    I tried double sided tape. It didn't stick to the surfaces.
     
  4. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Depending of the ribbon or so. I have Wuerth's cables and my tape really stick to it. I surround the ribbon with tape to made it ticker.

    The other I2C HID driver is for Wacom. No influence on touch panel. The 1° I2C HID driver on my list is for touch. It give as error: "device can not start (code 10)". It's is an unspecified error some people have when loosing touch or pen. Other have code 43 SET_POWER command which the same error as without the cable.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
  5. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    I realise now I hadn't read the thread. "Let it for later" I remember now ! Anyway the clip/jumper/zif was mentioned in the 1° post (more info around 27 pages).My biggest mistake was to use cheap little screwdriver. There are all metal, rounded and even with a wheel at the bottom. No grip. I nearly break the speaker plastic with the magnet attracting the screw driver... Same problem when I was searching the connector lock, no control (and I could have fried something with electrostatic discharge, maybe I have)

    So fare I test continuity with a multimeter. Both cable are fine. Funny is the old cable shielding recover of a thin plastic, I had to put the probe with a little bit of force to reach the shielding if I wanted to test it from there. So I tested the cables. I also test my faulty connector. The 5° pin from the right doesn't give enough continuity from both ribbon, tested 2 time both. With the probe straight insert it's OK. I think I find my problem. Now I have to manage to find a solution.

    EDIT Well I put 2 layer of thin tape on the back of the cable's head and continuity is on evreypin but no touch coming back same code 10 error I2C HID driver (unspecified in fact)

    2° EDIT Still no touch back... but I tested the cables connected on the motherboard and touchboard.

    The new cable conduct on every pin but it's a mess on line 1 to 4. I get measure signals for each other ! Fat from my fingers to lines ? Little copper piece inside the connector ? I hope I haven't fried something that's all.

    At the same time I took a closer look at the old cable and the problem is obvious: one head/end have the common line (what I called improperly "a shielding" is in fact a larger plate to reduce resistance) nearly touching the 2° line cause it's coming straight from the line before taking a turn. A little bend is sufficient to make a short cut. On the other head/end, the larger plate line start further from the 2° line and doing so is further when turning. It avoid touching the 2° line even if bended. I wonder now if the weak side was attached to the motherboard cause it bend there in the bad direction, inside the visible line. On my original pen cable still attached to the motherboard, it's like that. If the cable go up and bend a little bit more, the common line is not far enough the second line. Inverting the cable could do the trick.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2016
    Mesosphere likes this.
  6. OleksP

    OleksP Pen Pal - Newbie

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    My report:
    first issue with pen occurred right after I took tablet out of case and put it back in. Rubber straps of my case are very tight. Then in a week or so digitizer was dead.
    Fiddling with existing cable was easy - using tweezers I've took one (easier) end of the digitizer cable out, unbent a bit two bends, glued (Terokal 2444, remains flexible) two small peaces of wrapping cellophane from a parcel (with microbubbles) to curved parts of the cable, put a peace from a plastic bag under the cable (where sticky stuff).
    More than month ago, no more glithes. Original drivers and no Windows updates (going to swith to Win10 so why bother).
    Bought on eBay before xmass, ASUS refurbished (was opened), looks as new, 90 days US warranty, 64Gb $130, thou with Office360 only.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
    Mesosphere likes this.
  7. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    For disassembly informations, internet bring you only to this thread and the thread over M80TA battery changing (but pictures has been remove). My problem is to reach the touch controller. It 's more complicated than the battery. It's like if you need to change the panel. I don't see how the bezel can be remove.

    I guess my touch ZIF connector is faulty. In a continuity test without cable, I get the same signal on the pad for the 1° line (SD card reader side) and pads for line 3,4 and 8 ! It could be normal if 3 line aren’t use for anything... I doubt about it. Only way to be sure is to test an OK device. Anyway I fried something cause I don’t see anything wrong.

    The ID sticker on the touch control board is partially hidden. I see something like ...-TC1210(20? at the end. But 60NB04G0-TC1210 or 60NB04G0-TC1210 doesn't exist. For Asuspart.eu it's should be something like -IOxxx or -R100x0. Asus touch controller for other device are often labelled -R10030. This one exist but no picture to be sure:
    http://www.asusparts.eu/en/Asus-90NB04G0-R10030
     
  8. ToniCipriani

    ToniCipriani Scribbler - Standard Member

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    Anyone know what's the spec for the touchscreen cable? My pen is working fine but my touchscreen will start going wonky with the same HID Descriptor error.
     
  9. Yoyo

    Yoyo Scribbler - Standard Member

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    Here is the type I bought, along with the original. Worked fine in the one tablet, but I wrecked the second one being too ham fisted, I guess. Need to order another myself.
     

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  10. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    I was not carefull with my ZIF connector. I posted many time about it but connectivity is OK with the original cable. I tested myself when removed. Just test it: no loss, no mess on the original cable. Then you have the vodoo massage that can fix it for a while ?...

    The only explanation that I can find is the line that spread on the top of the original cables (like an half shielding, so more a ground line with minimal resistance I thing). It's not properly aligned where it goes to the top, obvious with naked eyes on the picture above. Furthermore on manufactured M80TA, the line going to the cables top is inside the bending at the motherboard's connector! With more compression this "top" line can now touch the 2° line nearby.

    It seems that we only need to avoid compression at the connectors with the top line inside the bending. Last time I check, inverting the cable's heads from MB to TB should do that. If you want to try this solution first, it's free and the new cables don’t have a line going to the top of the cable so it's not worst and even better if proved.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2016
    fishdavis likes this.
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