DIY fix for the Asus Vivotab Note 8 pen/touch failure.

Discussion in 'Asus' started by Mesosphere, Aug 29, 2014.

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Did the cable replacement fix work for you (votes are changeable, owners only please)?

  1. Replacing the cable worked.

    29.8%
  2. Fiddling with the original cable worked.

    54.8%
  3. A DIY fix is not something I'm willing to try.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. I attempted the fix, but it did not work for me.

    6.0%
  5. I have had no digitizer issues.

    9.5%
  1. hustlerose

    hustlerose Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Hello,
    Im thinking about buying the cable from that first link provided by the OP, but there are some characteristcs that i dont know what to choose...Termination Style? Length - Exposed Ends?
    Can someone give me a hint?
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. norazi

    norazi Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Thanks, this was super easy and took about 5 minutes with a pen and guitar pick.

    I have random, question, whats the little blue/clear rubber sacs at the top and bottom (in OPs photo with the green and blue circle)
     
  3. ToniCipriani

    ToniCipriani Scribbler - Standard Member

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    Does any one know if those boards also host the GPS and the accelerometer sensors or are they on the main board?
     
  4. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Easy to open, yes BUT don't open both side (left and right) from bottom up: it break the hard plastic part at the hedge on one place, after the power button. Logical cause it gave more pressure perpendicular with left and right open. Mistake not made in the video, I've done it myself.

    For the cables, somebody should have notice that the connectors have "clips" (clappets in french)? Look the touch cable, the black part of the visible connector can go up and down. For the pen cable, it's all white but there is also a "clip" (technical word ?).

    I guess it's the same for the mother board's connectors. But It require very thin cross screwdriver. 1,4 mm flat screwdriver can't get rid of the speaker's screw (much harder). To bad cause touch is not com'in back, did I push to hard on the new cable without taking down the motherboard's connector ?
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2016
  5. Peter T

    Peter T Pen Pal - Newbie

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    See my post of Dec 14 for how to buy cables and installing with or without lifting clips (some of us have called them tabs or retainers). Without lifting the clips the cables won't go in far but it's enough. Just check it by pulling gently. I recommend doing what I said about using a biro refill to protect the bends in the cables. That means you will only do this once.

    If you find things don't work after restarting you probably kinked the cables by pushing too hard. That happened to me and I actually bought a few of each cable in anticipation that this might happen.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
    yéyé and WillAdams like this.
  6. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    I overlook your message, to bad cause very precise info and caution words there ("Refill end" lost me a bit as french speaker, Ok it's a pen cartrige but still not getting it). I only add to your message, be careful when opening the house= do not open it left AND right before it's open upward.

    With my half-habitabilities, I ended up touching a pin with my flat screw driver............. One pin look damage, only on the first mm but it's where it matter! I'm looking for the precise ID of the touch MB. If the speaker screw wasn't so tied I could access to it. Is it a board with this label : "90NB04G0-R10030" ? http://www.asusparts.eu/en/Asus-90NB04G0-R10030
    Don't open it for me, it's in case somebody know. I can look at it later.

    1° edit: I tried to make a connection someway to test if it's the connector. I cut a bit the cable around the faulty pin to push this line further than the other. What I have with "control panel>troubleshooting>Hardware and Sound>configure a device" is : "Windows has stopped this device becouse it has reported problems (code43)

    The device failed the SET_POWER comand". Same error as cable remove.

    2° edit: When I stop playing with the cable (cutting it straight again) troubleshoot give back "I2C HID device as a driver problem", no more error code. With the cable remove, I losted the position sensor and now it's back. Could it really be a driver problem ? I haven't find one with this name on Asus Web site.

    3° edit: "I2C HID device" driver is also in charge of the stylus. Certainly also in charge of the position sensor on the touch board which work perfectly. So my connector is working for this dedicated pin. Could be a confirmation that one touch'pin is damage or it is the cable. If nobody has updated his driver I forget the driver possibility.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016
  7. Peter T

    Peter T Pen Pal - Newbie

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    The biro refill suggestion refers to the flexible pipe inside the pen that holds the ink. I cut pieces 3-4mm wide from the clean end. I installed the cables and was careful not to allow the bends to kink by holding the shafts of small screwdrivers where the bends were. This allowed me to identify where the bends were going to be.

    Then I removed the non-motherboard ends of the cables (the ends that had the clips that I could reach) and glued the pieces from the pen inside the bends of the cable. Then I just refitted the cables.

    When fitting the cables in the first place I found it easiest to fit the motherboard ends of the cables first.

    Somebody else suggested deactivating and reactivating the 12C HID drivers. I may have even followed that tip myself. I am afraid I can't remember now. For sure it cannot hurt to try it.

    You may be okay with slight damage to the pins behind the clips. I was.

    I am afraid I don't know which parts do which tasks. I am not an electronics person.

    I agree with your point about opening the cover. You need to be sure that each step isn't going to strain the components.

    My knowledge is a consequence of the results of the guy who had the foresight to open the device in the first place and the knowledge or training to understand what he was looking at. He also put some videos on YouTube. Another guy made an outstanding analysis of the causes of the cable problem. He posted some helpful photos. Others, like the person who recommended reactivating the drivers (or this may have come from the first two guys), made contributions that make this task possible. It's really a piece of teamwork.

    To get the full picture of how to do it, it's important to read the whole post.

    Bonne chance.
     
  8. Peter T

    Peter T Pen Pal - Newbie

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    My device has two 12C HID drivers and I think I may have reactivated both of them.
     
  9. snoxu

    snoxu Pen Pal - Newbie

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    @Peter T: Great idea to to avoid kinks

    What sort of glue did you use?

    Cheers
     
  10. yéyé

    yéyé Pen Pal - Newbie

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    Bonjour tout le monde,

    Clever to use refill pen that way. For my possibly damage connector, I found a trick with tape on the cable head to made it thicker. It didn't work, it's more for broken lock.

    BTW, it's called ZIF (zero input force) connector. More precisely, It's a FFC (flexible flat cable) connector with a back locking. This type of back locking has certainly a name but that not going to help me.

    I 'm gone look at a second I2C driver but I already desactivate-active the one causing trouble. ID for the touch board it's the last nummer on the sticker but I can't see it cause the enclosure begin there.

    I need to test continuity on the connector after the ribbon. Only way I can think of is cutting in 2 the original cable, tearing apart the line and finding a way to connect it near the back locking while the other half is in the connector. Must have to check voltage acceptance first also.

    I had read all the thread a while ago before buying this little thing second handed. I was tired and made bad decisions, namely opening the left and right housing side before going up and thinking it's a front locking connector at first sight.
     
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