AFFS vs IPS

[Manyak]

The question you are asking doesn't have an answer. Not because people don't agree, but because there simple isn't an answer.

If you want to talk theoretically, AFFS is better. If you want to talk actual production, and compare the best AFFS panel to the best IPS panel, ... well see for yourself. No AFFS display made can match that monitor's quality.

If you want to narrow it down to screens found on Tablet PCs only, then it really depends. Since AFFS+ technology is superior, but IPS has the upper hand on manufacturing and design support, you'll have to compare two specific screens yourself, side by side, to get your answer. Anything is possible.

[Agent 9]

@OchoZero9
From what I have seen, it looks like the X220t doesn't have that much of an edge on the X201t (even in the field of batterylife; from what I've seen Sandy Bridge is pretty efficient with really low usage scenarios, but it has about the same efficiency/ warm running with 'normal' or high usage as the Arrandale processor in your X201t.... so there really isn't much you are missing out on)

maybe you could play a few games a little bit better on the X220t (thanks to the slightly better processor, and significantly better Intel 3000 chip), but it will be under full load when doing so, so both battery life and heat would be pretty bad with the X220t and those tasks... so it has a bit more capability, but it runs about the same as the X201t



Personally I advise you keep your X201t and just work towards getting things 'buttery smooth' running so battery life increases (Windows Power Plans [one of the biggest impacts on battery life], the Intel gpu settings [set to max battery, for when its on battery], minimize the number of start up applications, turn off/ uninstall all unnecessary 'bloatware', if possible disconnect internal devices that you don't use [for example if you don't use Bluetooth, and it is a separate chip, disconnect it], clear dust out of vents... and be sure to check what the computer is drawing for power ['Battery Bar' does a decent job of calculating current mWhr drain; at idle it should be around 7-8, under load should closer to 12-15, well, once it is well optimized it should])

The screen on your X201t is 'better' in that it has a much more desirable resolution, has the transflexive properties of the AFFS+ screen (IPS inherently does not have this to near the level AFFS+ does; it helps when you are in areas of high brightness), and you already have it and don't have to spend more money on something (and if you bought the X220t, then you have wait for it to arrive, and possibly have to send it back/ in for repairs as early production runs of any computer are notorious for bad quality control/ defective parts)



If you have a bit of money to spend, I say get yourself a decent SSD, a new, or 1 generation Intel SSD would be good (not a OCZ [poor customer support, and notorious for screwing over customers, best to avoid them], and not a Kingston [bad, very very bad efficiency on their most common SSD's, and the more expensive ones aren't that much better, avoid them as they have a cheap product]); that will really help increase battery life, and it will most likely show a modest drop in temperatures as well... I saw you created a thead about looking for a SSD previously, but it doesn't look like you got one

If the reason you are hesitant to get a SSD is because of the lack of size (or rather the lack of funds to purchase a adequately sized SSD; an affliction which I suffer as well ), realize that you can get a flush fitting USB 3.0 expresscard adapter (it is 100% flush fitting from pictures I've seen of it in thinkpads, and it has 2 USB 3.0 ports that run as well as if they were built in)... a MASSIVE thread about it on NBR here Flush USB 3.0 Expresscard Adapter

So, about $20 for the adapter, plus a USB 3.0 HDD enclosure (price depends on what you buy, and if you get a good deal on it or not), then the price of the SSD (again, dependant on what you get, and where from -a new drive from newegg, versus a older generation one bought used from either ebay, or NBR's marketplace NBR Marketplace); I think somewhere in the area of $200-300+ for it all



Hope some of that helped you, if you have any questions, I'll be more than happy to provide the best answer I can.

[OchoZero9]

Thank you for your very informative post. I have so many things at startup that I don't even know what they are. I've tried to configure Windows power plans to the best "I" can think of. i do want an ssd i just cant afford it. What's the point of the usb 3.0? its not like imma feel a zillion bytes per sec transfer speeds. Christian's random notes: SSD benchmarks using HD tune pro However 0.2 ms access on the ssds are what makes them. My poorman's solution is too use 64kB clusters. it will have to make less jumps to the next cluster. The not so bad trade off is you lose space in a magnitude of 1 to 63kB per file. I haven't done this yet. And this is only theoretical so I really don't know if I would get results I'd appreciate.
I have some gripes about this computer though. The fingerprint reader never gets it. I even rescan my fingers every know end then. The super hot air it blows out. And that I can't go through one lecture with the batteries. (using the pen) Even though I have a 4cell. This is unacceptable. I would really like to know how you optimized yours. I seen some generic 8 cell online but i see two problems. 14.8v compared to the oem of 14.4v. and it has 4.4Ah and the oem has 4.6Ah I would also expect a cheaper made battery, since I know the profit margin on these ebaytteries are of an exponential order, to not perform to specs of 4.4Ah and to have a lower half life than the OEM Sanyos. But it's only $40 shipped. Buy.com has a battery with matching voltage at $52.18 shipped but it's only 4Ah. Theoretically they are all better than my 2Ah

I don't know why I don't play games, even though I do like to. So that isn't too much of a concern. The only game I have is starcraft 2 and I haven't played it after the first week of release.

One thing I'm dying about the 220 is the edge of the screen. I really wish mines was like that.

darthen: display port doesn't carry audio.

thanks

[Agent 9]

Sorry for the delayed response (I had it almost fully typed out yesterday, but when I put my computer to sleep it locked up and needed a hard shutdown -I was testing different drivers that were -obviously- problematic to say the least)



For starters if you haven't done a battery calibration (there might be a option for it in the Lenovo software somewhere), but basically just leave your computer on and drain the battery until it shuts down, then immediately charge it up... reason is that this will give you an accurate read on how worn out the battery is, if at all

next we will have to get figures of estimated battery life [from the Windows 7 battery icon in the taskbar], as well as the temperatures [CPUID's Hardware monitor is probably the best for this -CPUID - System & hardware benchmark, monitoring, reporting-, though you may need to use the older 1.16 version from here -CPUID - System & hardware benchmark, monitoring, reporting-], just have your charged up computer do the things you normally do (low usage like note taking only, medium usage like internet browsing, high usage like heavy multi-tasking)


as for cleanup and optimization, well I change some settings manually [Intel GPU settings, power plans, some visual settings, ect...], but I use Tune Up Utilities to do background maintenance and once in a while to change settings that work better [I think they have a trial period for the software, so you can try it out and see if it helps at all]

Though the single biggest push towards a more efficient system is doing a clean install (you can legally grab the Windows Install discs on one of the threads on NBR -sorry I don't recall the thread I'm sure someone else does though- but all you do is install from those discs, use the serial key on the bottom of your X201t, and you have a functioning fresh install that is legal -you can only use that serial key for a install of the same type, so if it says the key is for "Windows 7 Professional" you can only use it on a install of Windows 7 Professional. the 64 bit/ 32 bit does not matter, the same key will work with either)


At this point in time, it is probably best to get a 8 cell battery, either now, or in a bit when you will need it [it should give you double battery life]; you can find legit batteries on ebay, you just have to give it time and keep watching the site